ORDER

 

New Delhi, dated the 3rd September,2008

 

            S.O. 2160(E)- In exercise of the powers conferred by sub-section (1) of section 3 of the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act,1985 (22 of 1985), and in supersession of the order of the Government of India, in the Ministry of Textiles, number S.O. 557(E), dated the 26th July, 1996, except as respects things done or omitted to be done before such supersession, the Central Government, being satisfied, after considering the recommendations made to it by the Advisory Committee that it is necessary so to do for the protection and development of the handloom industry, hereby directs that the article or class of articles specified in column (2) of the Table below, shall with immediate effect,  be reserved for exclusive production by handlooms upto the range specified in column (3), namely:-

 

TABLE

Sl. No.

Article or class of articles

Range reserved for exclusive production by handlooms

(1)

(2)

(3)

1.

Saree

A Saree is a fabric made out of hundred percent. cotton yarn or hundred percent. silk yarn or in any combination thereof and includes a saree made in blends or union with upto forty-five percent. by weight of man-made fibres or yarn in combination with cotton yarn or silk yarn and is characterised by one or more of the following -

(i)     has extra warp and/or extra weft design in the border and /or heading and/or body, including buttas containing any yarn including metallic or metallised yarn or zari or any  combination  of thereof;

(ii)    has a solid woven border;

(iii)   has tie and dyed yarn warp-wise and/or weft-wise,

but does not include-

  (i)  crepe, chiffon, chinon, georgettes and cotton voile saree;

(ii) grey or  bleached silk saree having a border in extra   

      warp design.

2.

Dhoti

Dhoti is a fabric made out of hundred percent. cotton yarn or hundred percent. silk yarn or in any combination thereof and includes a dhoti made in blends, or union with upto forty-five percent. by weight of man-made fibres or yarn in combination with cotton yarn or silk yarn which has an extra warp design of more than 14mm width including selvedge in the border, and/or extra weft heading of more than 14mm width.

3.

(a) Towel and  Gamcha

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(b)  Angavastram

A towel is a fabric woven in plain, mat, twill, honey-comb, huckaback or a combination of these weaves with border and heading and includes. –

(A) a towel-

(i)      made of cotton or blends of cotton with any other fibre;

(ii)     made in different dimensions;

(iii) which may be white or coloured;

(iv) which may contain decorative design when produced     

       on jacquard; and

(v)  with mat weave, commonly known as Erazha Thorthu in  

          Kerala and Erazha Thundu in Tamil Nadu.

(B)  Gamcha.

 

Angavastram is a grey or bleached cloth of plain weave with border with extra warp in the borders and includes  Angavastram-

(i)        manufactured from any natural fibre including silk (except spun silk) or man-made fibre or any  combination of thereof;

(ii)       which contains white or coloured yarn or metallic or metallised yarn or zari or any combination of thereof, in its border or headings;

(iii)     which has a width ranging from 70 cms. to 100 cms. including selvedges; and 

(iv)     which has length varying from 1.50 meters to 3.00 meters;

4

Lungi

Lungi is fabric made out of cotton yarn or art silk yarn or in any combination thereof, having a width of 110 cms. or above and 64 ends per inch and above and woven in check and/or stripe design using coloured yarn to form check and/or stripe pattern.

5.

Khes, Bedsheet, Bedcover, Counterpane, Furnishing (including tapestry, upholstery)

 

Khes, bedsheet, bedcover, counterpane and furnishings (including tapestry, upholstery), by whatever name they may be called in different parts of the country, and includes a double cloth made out of cotton yarn and/or art silk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn or any yarn in combination thereof which is woven with design pattern and/or a repeat of design upto 200 ends, irrespective of count and dimensions but does not include a plain sheeting woven only in plain, twill, satin or sateen weaves.

6.

Jamakkalam Durry or Durret

Jamakkalam Durry or Durret made out of cotton yarn or art silk yarn or wool yarn or jute yarn or in any combination thereof, using, in the case of cotton yarn, coarse count of single yarn of upto 20s or folded/plies of resultant count upto 10s, or their equivalent count and in the case of art silk yarn or wool yarn or jute yarn, upto 26 ends per inch, woven with plain weave or twill weave or in combination thereof in any dimension.

Explanation.- The count of cotton yarn upto 10s is equivalent to the count of worsted yarn upto 15s or woollen yarn upto 32.8s or count of art silk yarn not less than 530d denier or count of jute yarn upto 1.7 lbs.

7.

Dress Material

Dress Material including Mashru cloth made out of cotton yarn and/or silk yarn (including spun silk) and/or art silk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn or in any combination thereof, woven with extra weft design in the border and/or body irrespective of count and dimensions and includes Telia Rumal and Real Madras Handkerchief.

8.

Barrack Blankets, Kambal and  Kamblies

(a)  Barrack blanket means a thick fabric made of wool of average 34 micron and above, with fibrous surface, produced by milling and raising and includes barrack blankets made by using hand spun or mill spun woollen yarn from natural grey or black wool or its combination thereof and produced in any size or weave.

(b)  Kambal or kamblies means a thick fabric made of wool of about 34 microns and above, with fibrous surface, produced by milling and raising and includes kambal or kamblies made by using hand-spun  or  mill-spun  worsted yarn,  woollen  yarn or combination thereof in plain, stripe or check design.

Explanation.- For the purpose of this order, items (a) and (b) shall not include barrack blanket, kambal or kamblies made out of shoddy yarn, i.e, a cheaper class of woollen yarn made from reused or recycled wool and synthetic rags.

 

  9.

Shawl, Loi, Muffler, Pankhi etc.

Shawl is a piece of cloth woven from worsted yarn or woolen yarn or Pashmina yarn or pure silk yarn or cotton yarn and/or any combination thereof, which is used for covering body or worn over the shoulders without being put to any tailoring process and includes,-

(A) a shawl-

(i)       which is woven with extra weft design, using woollen   yarn or worsted yarn or pashmina yarn or pure silk yarn or cotton yarn  and/or any combination thereof or in blends with other fibers which may be natural and/or man-made or synthetic, with dobby or jacquard design up to 400 hooks;

(ii)     which is woven using any type of woollen yarn, worsted yarn or pashmina yarn or pure silk yarn or cotton yarn and/or any combination thereof;

(iii)    which is woven with any count of yarn; and

(iv)   which is woven in any length, width and weight.

(B) Loi, pankhi, mufflers, traditional shawls like kullu,     

      kinnauri, khani, pashmina, dhori, lirancha (Tibetan),

      gajari or any shawl, by whatever name called, in the  

      north eastern region.

Explanation.-for the purpose of this order, item (A) and (B) does not include article made from cashmilon yarn

10

Woollen Tweed

Woollen tweed is a piece of fabric woven by hundred percent. pure woollen yarn for making coats, jackets and dress materials and is-

(i)        produced in check or stripe design irrespective of dimensions; and

(ii)       produced in 3/1 twill weave.

11

Chaddar, Mekhala/ Phanek

Chaddar, Mekhala or Phanek is used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body and is manufactured from cotton yarn or silk yarn or art silk yarn or in any combination thereof, woven in plain or twill weave with check or stripe design irrespective of count and dimensions and is characterised by a border and/or cross border with extra warp and/or extra weft design and includes-

(i)        Puan of Mizoram;

(ii)       Dhara, Jainsem, Dakmanda, Daksari of Meghalaya;

(iii)     Skirts and Odhana fabrics of Nagaland and Arunachal  Pradesh;

(iv)     Riha and Pachara of Tripura;

(v)      Pawade (set) or Dhawani of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry; and

(vi)     Dakhona, Danka, Khamlet, Phanek of Assam;

 

Explanation,- for the purpose of this order,-

(a)                “Chiffon” means a lightweight, openmesh fabric, made from hard twisted silk filament yarn in plain weave;

(b)               “Butta” means extra warp and/or extra weft spots design effect in the body of a Saree or dress material;

(c)                “Pawade” means an ankle-length gathered skirt often in two-piece often used with sari or dupatta;

(d)               “Odhani” means an oblong cloth about 6 or 7 ft. long and 3 to 4 ft. wide, with overall embroidery or woven jacquard weave with traditional design like himroo shawl or made up of a fabric decorated with cotton yarn or silk yarn or zari or any other fibre and used to cover the body;

(e)                “Chinon” means a cotton or cotton blended compact plain or twill fabric mainly used as summer wear;

(f)                 “Upholstery” means intricately designed jacquard fabric used for upholstering and furnishings;

(g)                “Mashru” means a mixed fabric made from cotton yarn and silk yarn and /or Tie and Dye yarn;

(h)                “Mekhala” means a piece of cloth with ends sewn together which is used by women as dress or petticoat in Assam

(i)                  “Riha” means a cloth worn by women on the upper part of the body.

(j)                 “Dhawani” means a saree like fabric of about 4 to 5 yards in length used by girls;

(k)               “Puan” means a cloth used for covering the lower and/or upper part of the body manufactured from cotton yarn or silk yarn or art silk yarn or in combination thereof, woven in plain or twill weave with check or stripe design and used commonly in Mizoram;

(l)                  “Dhara” means a cloth used for covering the lower/ or upper part of the body manufactured from cotton or silk or combination thereof, in plain or twill weave with check or stripe design used commonly in Meghalaya and also commonly known as “Jainsem” or “Daksari” or “Dakmanda”

(m)              “Loi” means a cloth woven from worsted or woollen or cashmelon or pashmina or any other fibre and/or blends thereof, which are used for covering the body; and also called as “Pankhi” or “Muffler” or “Shawl” in varying dimensions;

(n)                 “Dhakona” means varieties used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body manufactured from cotton or silk or combination thereof, in plain or twill weave with check and stripe designs and commonly used in Assam.

 

 

[F. No. 2/1/2008/DCH/CEO]

 

(B.K. Sinha), Development Commissioner for Handlooms

 


 
 

 

 

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